Editor's Note:
Thanks for sending this Judy.
I recently found Mom's journal from her 1964 trip to Europe. Dorothy and Paul had given her this trip for Christmas 1963 and notice of it came in the form of a little hummel with a scroll announcement in the basket. I believe this hummel was with Doug before he passed so I believe it is still in Denver. This was an important trip for Mom and I believe, her first airplane ride. Barbara and David were in College and I was in Cosmetology School in Yakima. Richard was spending time with the Davidos and Doug was working at the Employment Office in Toppenish. Dorothy and Paul were living in Ludwigsburg, Germany and Paul was teaching at an American High School there. Cammie and Brian were youngsters and in Ludwigsburg with their parents and Heidi was not yet even a twinkle.
Chapter 1 was typed and Mom had indicated that it should be passed around rather than sending individual notes to everyone. She also put a disclaimer and said she had not corrected some typos, spellings, grammar and punctuation. I left it much the same as she had written it and felt that it was more personal to her this way. I hope you enjoy this accounting of her trip as much as I did.
While reading this, remember that Nan was 47 at the time. She had lost two husbands and had to step forward to learn to manage and run a ranch that she knew little about and worked a couple of other jobs to make sure we all had what we needed. Nothing went to waste on the ranch. She often stayed up late to make clothes and would often make matching ones for our dolls. She may have worked all day, but continued with many late nights making sure that the fruits and vegetables did not spoil but were canned and preserved for future use. She did not have the time or means to make a trip like this and you can sense the thrill she experienced in her words. Although I did not appreciate how much this trip meant to her back then, I get the opportunity to experience that excitement and joy through her own words.
Chapter 2 was hand written and will be a little more difficult to reproduce but I will get it up as soon as I can for those who are curious. I also hope to reproduce a couple of letters that were sent her way while she was with Dorothy and Paul.
Chapter 1
To England
Trafalgar Sqiare
This is now two weeks since I left Seattle-Tacoma airport for Europe but I will attempt to start from the beginning of this wonderful experience and bring you up to date before very many other things happen to me. In spite of the fact I know this is really true I've pinched myself several times to be thoroughly convinced.
As you all know Ruth and Scotty Wilson drove Dick and I to Seattle Friday evening where Dick and I were guests of Emily and Norman Larson until my take-off Saturday evening at 7:15 and the Wilsons were the weekend guests of their west-Seattle friends. As always the Larsons were delightful host and hostess. Dave joined us for a lovely meal about 4:00 Saturday afternoon. The excitement was beginning to build up within me as I then hurried to get ready to go to the airport. We arrived at the airport about six to find the Lambertsens from Roy waiting for us and soon the Vern Cheynes came into sight. The Wilsons and Ann Osbun had joined the Larsons, Dick and I for the trip to the airport. Everyone was so sweet in their individual greeting and good wishes and the lovely cards and gifts I received from so many dear friends was surely an indication to me that I certainly had many dear friends and relatives to come home to. I did so appreciate having the Del Zanders and their two little boys Steven and Roger from Woodinville come to see me off. They are dear friends of Dorothy and Pau and last week we had word from them that they were now the parents of a third son Vernon. Colleen Cathy and Chris and Colleen's mother Hazel Jensen were also on hand.
At 6:45 the passengers were summoned to board the plane. I had a strange feeling as I waved to everyone from the platform just before entering the plane but the next 30 minutes passed very quickly as I became familiar with the things around me and I calmed down to the point where I knew I was going to be thrilled beyond words with everything that was to happen to me. I don't think I will ever forget the feeling of that first take-off as we quickly gained altitude and saw the beautiful city of Seattle sprawled below us like a map. As soon as we were airborne the head hostess spoke to us over a loud speaker system explaining the use of the life jacket which are stored under each seat and two hostesses demonstrated putting them on an adjusting them for use. The pilot told us the route we would be taking and also that we would be flying at 29,000 feet altitude. There were 177 passenters aboard, including two first-class. One of these was David Rose the band leader who appears on the Skelton show. Two hours after departing from Seattle we landed in Winnegeg for refueling. The flight to this point had been very bumpy due to the head winds we had been flying into. Before reaching Winnepeg the passengers had enjoyed cocktails and soft drinks followed by a dinner of chicken, tossed salad, string beans, soup, roll and coffee. By this time I had gotten acquainted with my two seat companions, Blanch Ross of Republic, Washington, an older woman who was on her way to Munich to visit her daughter a school eacher who is planning to be married at the close of school. Mae Fender of Centralia was the other partner, a dress shop owner and operator also on her way to Munich where she would be meeting friends and traveling throughout parts of Europe for several weeks. This was a new experience for all of us and Mae seemed to enjoy it as thoroughly as I but Blanche was a bit too eager for the trip to end. They were to have a seven hour wait in London in order to make connections for their Munich flight and so had agreed to come into London and do some sightseeing with me but at this time little did we know what red-tape it would have taken for them to have left the airport. We were to find this out later.
At Winnepeg we set our watches ahead two hours. We now leveled off at 37,000 feet flying at over 700 miles an hour flying into the dawn. You'll never know what a beautiful sight it was to see the beautiful sun's rays over that field of billowey clouds below us. By three (our Winnepeg time) it was daylight. At 3:30 I changed my watch to London time (9:30 am) We had passed over the most northerly part of Canada where we saw hundreds of spotted areas below resembling small bodies of water some looking very much like ice. Then over the North Atlantic, what a thrill! Breakfast was served at 11:30 London time, English muffins, Canadian bacon, scrambled eggs, grapefruit, jam and coffee. At 1:10 we were over the coast of Ireland. I believe by this time we were a great deal lower as we could see the coast line and later make out the roads and green fields below us. I'm sure it must be a beautiful country. We were to have arrived in London by 12:45 but were at least an hour and a half late due to winds earlier in the trip. It wasn't any time it seemed after seeing the coast of England spread out before us that we came down at the London airport. Before leaving the plane we were told that those who were stopping in London would leave the plane from the rear and those who would be making other connections would leave from the front. Little did I know then that I wouldn't be seeing my seat companions again but I was soon to learn why as we were ushered into a certain entrance of the largest airport I've ever seen. First in one line to show our passports and then to a large area where we were to claim our luggage. By this time I was getting pretty loaded down but I was able to soon find a baggage porter to load everything on a cart to take to the line for customs. I was starting to open my bags when the customs officer asked me if I had certain things within them and since I didn't I was waved on. I was getting my first taste of the british accent as I came in contact with each individual. I told the baggage porter what also I had to do before leaving the airport and he kindly ushered me first to one place and then another. An attendant was not on hand at the KLM department where I was to confirm my flight to Amsterdam for Wednesday and so the porter used the phone on the desk to do this and also to leave a message for the Schoenleobers who would be arriving on Monday. The porter was amused at my accent and decided to relay the messages for me as he doubted that the party on the other end of the line would be able to understand me. At the bank still in the airport I changed some travelers checks into English currency. The porter hurried me along then to a waiting bus which carried us to the arrival station BOAC, over an hour's trip into the city of London. This was my first experience driving on the wrong side of the road and this bus driver wouldn't let anyone get the best of him. He either waved people on to pass or told them to stay back with the use of his hand which hung out of the window almost the entire trip.
On the bus I sat next to a girl, Vera Marquid, of Los Angeles, who I learned was to be staying at the same hotel as I and so we shared a cab. We were both eager to take a bath and clean up and at five were both ready to take out on foot with cameras in hand. She had a good map of the city so our first stop was Trafalgar Square where every one and his cousin was gathered to feed the pigeons which were all around you. We took many pictures here and then walked on through Admiralty Arch for a stroll down the Mall. This led us to St. James Park where hundreds of families were enjoying the beautiful day visiting and sunning themselves. We decided this must be the day of the week when the English families were together. The English baby carriage with it's large wheels, fringe and some with umbrella-like tops were everywhere. We then walked over to Birdcage Walk and over the Thames River on the Westminster Bridge and then back over the Waterloo Bridge. We were hundry by this time and decided to look up one of the Lyone Corner Restaurants (Europe on $5 a Day) It seemed we walked miles and in circles by this time and finally stumbled onto it. We ordered a typical english meal but I for one wasn't too impressed although Vera seemed to enjoy it. I discovered later that the English people are not very good cooks. They don't season well, they don't know what good salads are and they don't know that an ice cold drink should be colder than luke warm.
I slept very well that evening you can be sure since not having slept since 8:00 AM Saturday morning in Seattle. I had breakfast brought up to my room the next morning and dressed for the morning tour which was to begin at 9:45 from the tour office. This I was told was a 15 minute walk from my hotel -- that I found out was if I were an Englishman for they walk pretty swiftly. I decided to take a cab and arrived just in time for the morning tour which was about to leave before the scheduled time. The guide was a typical elderly English gentleman, possibly a retired College professor who was very amusing and spoke beautiful english. This was a bus tour of one part of the city which we viewed mainly from the bus and were allowed to leave the bus to see Westminster Abbey. Words can not describe it's beauty. I have literature on most of these places which best describes them which you will be able to see when I return. I had planned to get back to this place myself but never could find the time. We left Westminster Abbey in time to see the changing of the guard at Buckingham palace next. There were so many excursion busses that it was impossible to get in close enough to see much of the actual ceremony. The band approached from someplace to enter the palace grounds playing "The Old Grey Mare" and during the concert they played almost entirely American music such as "Stardust" "Smoke Gets in yur Eyes? and etc. This was a bit disappointing. As the crouds thinned out around the fence I could get a better view of the row of guards standing at attention. As I watched, one guard keeled over as it was extremely hot especially with their attire. Two others stood him on his feet in his position in the line, wiped his face off and placed his hat on his head and there he stood again, teetering some. The crowds waited, I think for him to go over again but he seemed to regain his balance before long. The tour ended before lunch with a trip through Hyde Park and other places of interest in that area. I had lunch with a woman from Long Island who was touring Europe alone and then we returned to the tour office at 2:30 for the Afernoon Tour. We were not as fortunate this time in getting as good a guide. This time the guide was a woman whose accent was very difficult to understand at times. This was a tour of still another part of the city with a guided tour through St. Paul's Cathedral. The Tower of London and Dicken's Old Curiosity Shop. This tour ended about 5:15 and I decided to try my hand on the two story bus and within a few minutes got off of it in front of my hotel at a price of 4 pence. A few minutes after I reached my room Shirley Schoenleober called and informed me that they were stopping at the same hotel so we made arrangements to get together for dinner. With their small baby it seemed wisest that Wally stay in their room with him and Shirley, Karen, Dana and I looked up a restaurant near by. We took the girls back to their room after dinner and Shirley and I began to walk. As they would not have the time for a tour the next day she seemed to want to find Wesminster Abbey so we started out in that general direction. We found this and many other places of interest such as Downing street and we couldn't resist walking up the street to #10, very unimpressive with two guards standing in relaxing positions apparently guarding the residence of the prime-minister. I was pretty exhausted after returning from this venture and over-slept the next morning so was unable to meet the Schoenleobers for breakfast. Shirley stopped in my room for a few minutes before I had to leave in order to make it to the tour office for the Windsor trip. It was so good to have even such a short visit with them. Shirley expected me to fill her in on the Zillah news for the past two years but I soon learned that she didn't need much filling in.
Being later than usual I took a cab to the tour office again in time to make the bus for the Windsor trip. This took us out through the beautiful country-side where we visited The Stoke Poges Church started in the year 1086, added onto in 1230 and again in 1558. From here we drove on to a point on the river Thames where we boarded an excursion boat. The weather was unsettled but bright enough to take pictures. I hope they will turn out. There were eight in our tour this time which made the trip more enjoyable in my estimation. The guide, again was another old gentleman, very sedate and proper but quite frank in his remarks. Quite often in the course of the day we were asked to gather around him so that he could explain certain things to us and others outside of our group stopped to take advantage of the information. He would stop, quite often in the middle of a sentence and stare at them or make a remark which would send them on their way.
During the trip up the river our boat went through two locks and as we proceeded up the river the castle came into view. The flag of England was flying over the castle which indicated that the queen was not there at that time. Had she been there her personal flag would have been flying. One thing that surprised me was that there were rows and rows of shops and stores surrounding the walls of the of the Castle. Our tour included a lovely lunch at the Windsor Hotel nearby which we ate before entering the Castle grounds. By this time it was raining pretty hard and we entered the St George's Chapel. This is where the more recent Kings are buried. Marble images of King George V and Queen Mary lay over their tombs near the west door. At the present time King George VI is lying in state elsewhere in the chapel but when the Queen Mother passes on she and her husband will be laid opposite the tombs of King George V and Queen Mary. It was most interesting to see the beautiful room where the ceremony of the Order of the Garter will take place June 15. If any of those who read this see any pictures or television accounts of this ceremony they will be held in this very room and be attended not only by the royal family, the prime minister but many other notables of the English empire. The State Apartments were closed at this time so we were not permitted to visit them and due to the rain we chose to return to the bus. From here we drove to Hampton Court, an historic and lovely residence and the scene of so many Royal honeymoons and of so much of the tragedy of Royal History. Upon leaving this place we were told that we might see deer and almost immediately we could see groups of ten and twelve, more or less here and there along the roadside. I'm sure we saw at least a hundred or more and the passers-by made not the slightest difference to them, Because of the few on this tour we were taken directly to our hotels. I was happy to notice in the lobby the theatre booking stall was operating and I was able to reserve a seat at he Palace for that evening s performance of the "Sound of Music." It was every bit as good as Dorothy and Paul said it would be. As the people left the theatre hundreds of cabs appeared from all directions to transport them to their destinations so it was not a problem getting there. Again another full day.
This may not seem to you that I have seen a great deal of London and the surrounding area. In addition to the places I have toured and written about in more detail the following places were pointed out to us as we passed them: British Museum, Trafalgar Suare, Northumberland Avenue, Thames Embankment, New Scotland Yard, County Hall, Big Ben, Houses of Parliament, The Mall, Whitehall, Constitution Hill, Hyde Park Corner, Knightsbridge, Brompton Road, Harrods, Exhibition Road (Museums), Bayswater Road, Oxford Street, New Oxford St, Kingsway, Russell Square, Fleet Street, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, Ludgate Circus, Ludgate Hill, Bow Church (Bow Bells), Cheapside, Mansion House, Bank of England, Royal Exchange, London Bridge, The Monument, Cannon Street, Queen Victoria Street, Blackfriars, Emberment(?), Inns of Court, The Discovery, Aldwych, Bush House, Lincoln's Inn. One could not begin to see all of London in a week let alone three days but I left London on Wednesday feeling that I had made pretty good use of my time there.
To Amsterdam
Canals of Amsterdam
On the day of my departure I didn't plan to do any sighseeing as there is always so many things to see to in order to check out of a hotel, arrange for transportation to the departure station which again transports you to the airport where there are still other things to do before actual take-off. My plane left at 3:05 for Amsterdam arriving at about 4:15. In spite of the short time on the plane we were served refreshments and I again became acquainted with my two seat partners, Sophie Novak and Connie Gendolfo, about my age, both from Long Island who were on a three week tour of Europe. They were both working girls and were now headed for Amsterdam. They were following the book "Europe on $15 a Day" religiously and thus far had been very pleased with their accommodations. They had made very few reservations in advance and therefore were consulting the book for possibilities. We decided before leaving the plane that we would get together for the evening and that they would call my hotel for further arrangements. I was very pleased with my room at the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky. I was so intriged with this city I hated the thought of being there such a short time. It was about a half hour drive from the airport to the KLM arrival station and from there by taxi though those beautiful old streets heavy with traffic, automobile, pedestrian but mainly bicycles, and litterly thousands of them. I had first noticed the many bicycles on their separate roadway which followed along the highway from the airport.
I waited for awhile in my room for word from Sophie and Connie and finally decided I couldn't waste anymore valuable time so started out on foot. A few blocks down the street I came to a canal where there appeared to be excursion boats about ready to depart. For 35 cents I boarded one of them which took us though so many of the cities canals and this was absolutely the most wonderful experience I ever hope to have. Points of interest were pointed out to us by the young lady guide as we approached them. One unusual sight was the narrowest house in the city. It was no wider than four feet, with a door not much narrower on the ground floor and one window directly above it on the second floor. We also were shown the narrowest street in town, believe it or not 20 inches wide with a lamp post and street sign at the end. The tour took us out along the waterfront with a good view of the port which is the 6th largest port in the world. Following this excursion I returned to my hotel to find a message from Sophie and Connie and soon they walked in. I invited them up to my room while I freshened up before joining them for a walking tour. I happended to glance at my bags stacked on a chair and realized for the first time that I had someone else's bag in place of my largest one. I was almost sick for minute and explained it to the girls. They suggested I call down to the baggage porter and explain it to him. This was not too easy but I finally made myself understood. The mistake had been made at the airport when claiming my luggage, the other bag resembled mine as closely and the baggage tags were not checked by the porters as you picked them up. The porter telephoned the airport and located my bag and I told him to leave it there for me as I could manage to get by easily for the one night with the things I had with me. I paid three gilders (84 cents) for the other bag to be taken back to the station and as it was the general direction as we had planned to go we all three popped in and took advantage of the fare. We went to a cafe and sat at a table with a good view of the street. Had a much tastier meal than any in England and it seemed that we visited for hours over it. We took the trolley, which was much cheaper, back to my hotel and they returned from there to their hotel. The next morning I had breakfast in the lovely dining room and Connie and Sophie joined me there for a walk to the tour office on Damrak street where my tour was to begin. I had learned that morning that the Fabulous Flowers tour had been discontinued and would be replaced by a bus tour of the city with stops at the Diamond Factory and Rijkmuseum.The girls decided to join this tour too as we would return in plenty of time to get in some shopping before we had to report to the departure station for the continuence of our trip. The tour was most interesting and I hope my pictures will give a more vivid description than I am able to give you at this time. We were very impressed with the taste used in their shop windows. This was not true in London. The styles might be on a level with Paris, certainly more advanced than ours. Most of the women were very well groomed and looked very smart. It was a very common sight to see good-looking well-dressed girls even in their heels riding a bicycle. It was strange to me and I hadn't realized it until I got to Germany that I hadn't seen one windmill while there but I'm quite sure we will be going back to Amsterdam on our way to Denmark later and I'm sure Dorothy and Paul will make sure I see one then. Two wheeled carts laden with beautiful cut flowers were also very common on the streets. I guess you have surmised by this time that I loved Amsterdam. Sophie and Connie and I returned in time to shop in a few of the cute and quaint shops after our tour. I have been trying to pick up a spoon in many of the places I've been although I missed London. I'm getting the cart before the horse as I didn't mention the trip to the diamond factory. Our tour group was admitted to this building and the tour was conducted by an oriental girl. We saw the diamonds in their rough stage through all the stages to the polishing. In the display room we were permitted to try on beautiful rings. All diamonds here would be 45% cheaper than anywhere in the states. Many of us got our rings cleaned while here too. At the Rijkmuseum our time would not permit us to see it as thoroughly as we would have liked to but our guide, an attractive Dutch girl, made our hurried trip through the museum a very interesting one by her interesting remarks about the famous paintings she showed us especially those of Rembrandt.
Sophie and Connie went to the airport with me as they were planning to fly to Brussells not long after I was to leave for Stuttgart at 5:15PM. This time we were served a lovely dinner and a few minutes before landing, a drink of orange juice.
The report of my trip to this point has been quite lengthy but I have made it more detailed than I would if I were to write each of you indifvidually. I will enclose a list of those who I would like to get this and inturn please pass it on to the others. Please save this for me so that I can have it to refer to when I return. Please excuse the punctuation, typographical errors, spelling and etc. You will receive the next chapter before long I hope.
Daily Summaries
Friday June 12
Started out with a loaded car about 12 noon. The weather was beautiful. Enjoyed our lunch as we drove. Stopped for gas at the Augsburg Q.M. Station and another time for pictures of the beautiful countryside. There were many valleys and rolling plains, most fields were in one stage or another of harvesting. Arrived in the old city of Salzburg Austria late in the afternoon and set up camp at the Stadt Campsite. We were bothered with gnats and ants here and decided that we would find another campsite in this city when we returned the following week. Mileage to Salzburg was 248 miles.
Saturday June 13
Started out around 9 am toward Vienna via the autobahn and back roads. Hay harvesting seemed to be in full-swing. Reached Vienna about 3 pm and looked up a tourist office to get tickets for the Spanish Riding School show for the following morning but learned that the show was sold out except for standing room tickets which we could not get until the next morning. Located campsite Wien-Sud where we all enjoyed warm showers after dinner. Dorothy and I also washed clothes. Mileage to Vienna -- 197 miles.
Sunday June 14
Horses perform once a week at 10:30 each Sunday morning. Standing room tickets - 60 cents. Went to Hofburg Chapel to hear Viennese Boys Choir. No tickets - stood in an entry hall and heard one number. Drove through the famous Vienna woods and then to Schoenbrunn Castle, used until 1916. Napoleon Bonaparte married one of the King's daughters and made his headquarters here in the early 1800's. The intricate inlaid wood floors were of exquisite design. The interior is being remodeled showing a vast contrast between old and new but in perfect keeping. Coach museum adjoining held 25-30 royal coaches--good descriptions by guide and opened every one for us to see. (10 cents admission to coach museum and 28 cents to castle.)
Monday, June 15
Vienna is a very old and beautiful city. Dorothy and Paul left the children sleeping in the car and me watching and they visited one of Europe's largest pawn shops, the Dorotheum. After lunch we went on a walking tour. Were amazed at the underground cities which are reached by escalators at the corners of intersections.
Went into the Vienna Opera house where people were in line for tickets (probably standing room) for a performance, past the Parliament and Rothaus (city Hall) buildings into a couple of parks (many parks) then ended it by stopping in a famous pastry shoppe, expensive and more beautiful pastries (rows and rows) but our choices apparently were not the best.
Tuesday, June 16
Rain fell as we broke up camp but really started coming down as we were leaving. We drove to a very old section of town and located four homes formerly occupied by Beethoven during the early 1800's. Each bears a sign indicating the years he lived there but they are occupied by Austrians at the present. Went to Schubert park where Schubert and Beethoven were supposedly buried. Very old and untidy and uncared for. We drove back to Salzburg in mostly rainy and cloudy conditions. Noticed many people (more women than men) with scythes cutting hay or grass along highways (good four lane autobaun most of the way). Campsite here was very woodsy and while facilities were enclosed, water was icy.
Wednesday, June 17
Rained most of the night but day was mostly sunny and bright. Parked in one spot for entire day. Walked and walked -- crossed Salzack River and walked up many stairs and slopes to the Kapuzinerberg Monastery where we found an excellent view of the city. We headed for the Glockenspiel ( a large clock which chimes 3 times daily utilizing 35 bells). We then went into the Cathedral where an organ concert was in progress. This was the most massive early baroque building north of the alps. We visited the crypt in the basement.
I stayed with the children in the car after lunch while Dorothy and Paul browsed through the winding streets. After they returned we walked across the river, shopped for a lantern for the tent and etc and went to the house where Mozart lived from 1773-1787. Most of it was bombed out during World War II except for the entry hall and large living room which were restored and where daily at 5 pm during the summer a piano and violin concert is given, lasting an hour. We left when it was 3/4 through as the children were fussy.
Thursday, June 18
On our way on from Salzburg we visited Hellbraunn Castle and Wasserspiele, not far from there. We didn't visit the Castle but took the tour which took us past man-made ponds (with fish) and fountains where unexpectedly water was shot out the tourits. Little water driven scenes with moving people and accessories were in motion.
Neither warm and sunny to Berchtesgaden, Germany (Army recreation center) where we stopped for groceries then on to Innsbrook. Got there about 4 PM and headed for a museum which turned out to be the wrong one but we toured it just the same. Dorothy and Paul camped along the Inn River at a campsite and since it was raining we looked up Zimmer quarters for me so they could sleep in the car. I never did learn the name of the landlady but the room was very nice and clean (feather beds) and faced the street. While she couldn't understand me nor I her we learned a great deal about each other before I left the next morning. Cost was 40 shillings (1.60 including breakfast) 125 miles from Salzburg to Innsbruck.
Friday, June 19
Kids picked me up about 8:00 AM and we went to the site of the Winter Olympics. We walked around the ski jump area and climbed the unique bleachers to the torch. Trip to the Italian boarder was breathtaking across Benner pass, very mountainous with homes and fields way up on the hillsides. At the border we bought gas coupons (50 cents/gallow) and tickets good for admission to numerous museums and galleries and etc in Italy (1.60 each) This was surely (unlegible) country and we moved very slowly over the narrow winding roads and only the Germans and Italians would pass which petrified us at times.
By 3:30 we arrived in Vienna (180 miles) where the army base is located, got gas coupons (50 gal for $8.00), stocked up on groceries, ate dinner in the snack bar and headed for a laundromat which we couldn't find. On the way to a campsite, a real storm came. The rain fell so fast we were forced to stop along the way to wait for a few minutes. The road was then covered with water. We had driven 9 miles past the turnoff to the campsite. It simmered down enough so that Dorothy and Paul could string a tarp for protection for the night. My first contact with the stand up toilets --took a picture. The accommodations were enclosed except to the sky.
Saturday, June 20
The accommodations in Vienna were Romeo and Juliet. We were up early and got off towards town looking for the laundromat. First stopped by the army base for directions and fresh water. Finally found it and washed and dried all our things which had been accumulating. We drove then on the Autostrade to Venice, a modern four-lane toll road. The 75 miles passed quickly behind us and we looked up the campsite in Venice. There were hot showers at no extra cost. We decided that rather than go sight seeing anymore that day we would rest and relax and also clean up. Venice is actually 118 little islands separated by 160 canals and connected by 500 tiny walking bridges.
Sunday, June 21
Had a wonderful day in Venice leaving campsite about 8:30 and returning about 7:00. It was a 12 mile drive to town where we tried to find parking before crossing over into Venice. Finally ended up going in to the huge AGIP garage (10th floor, very modern) for $1.60/day. We started out by walking, crossing large and small canals turning from one tiny street into a larger one or smaller one going in almost any direction. If we were to retrace our steps it would have been an impossibility. To begin with we noticed so many cats and dogs, all apparently strays, very thin and neglected looking. Saw very little vegetation growing as there were few places for anything of this kind. Unbelievably white clothes hanging from so many windows and across streets and passage ways. This being Sunday, we handn't expected to find as many shops open. It was fun brousing in some of these. One of the first unusual things we saw were a funeral procession leaving a church. The casket (wood carved) was brought out by a few men and placed on a boat decked and draped in black and gold. Huge sprays of flowers were covering the casket and others on the boat. Members of the family boarded the same boat and it left down through the canals out to the Island of Crematorium. Ate a spaghetti lunch at a sidewalk cafe near the famous Rialto Bridge. There were never any railings or barracades separating the water from the sidewalks. While eating we of course watched the activity all around us. We observed a boatload of household furnishings being moved down the canal --this we saw at other times too. After lunch we boarded a Vaporetto (water bus) and went back to the garage where the children napped while Paul sat with them. Dorothy and I strolled for quite a distance on the Grand Canal.
After the naps we made a trip over Grand Canal by Vaperetto to San Marco Square. I've never seen so many pigeons (not even at Trafalgar Square in London). Several small bands were playing (American Music) at the outdoor cafes surrounding square lined with shops in an arcade style. Waiters tried to entice us to one of the tables here and there for refreshments. Also the gondolieres were constantly drumming up business. Their fee was $3.00 or so an hour per person. The water taxis were also pretty expensive but gave the gondoliers competition. Visited the large and dreary St. Mark;s Basilica and hunted up the American Express so we would know where to come to the next day for mail.
Monday, June 22
Left campsite at 8:45. Paul and the children were very spotted from mosquito bites so they were attracted to many people. Dorothy had several but not so noticeable. Me fewer. We looked up the American Express first but found no mail except for Paul from Realtor. Boarded a boat and rode for over an hour through Venice and then out to the Island of Murano famous for it's glassware. (Boat ride less than 22 cents/person) Passed the huge island which is the cemetary for Venice all walled.
We toured the glass factories watching the men working very close to very hot furnaces making glass figurines, vases and etc. and in each place ending up in the beautiful showroom to look at the finished products and purchase them if desiring to do so. Murano was quite drab and we seemed quite hungary after a time and looked for a restaurant. We were ushered through what looked like a bar to an enclosed court where laundry hung over us between the buildings, sat at a table with an umbrella shading and enjoyed a very good dinner of spaghetti again. Looked through many shops of glassware before boarding the boat again for the return trip.
Tuesday, June 23
On the road by 8:15 driving through orchard country where we saw a real contrast in homes. Drove the winding roads to Bologna, then on the autostrada to Florence--a great stretch of road about 70 miles long over beautifully constructed viaducts and through tunnels, four lanes all the way. It was not uncommon in Italy to see a beautiful restaurant spanning a four-lane highway. Italians drive very fast and lay on their horns. Trucks are equipped with steering wheels on opposite side. Policemen all over Italy dress in pure white. We drove directly to the campsite recommended, overlooking the city. We set up camp then drove to town, parked, making sure curtains were pulled not to show anything in the car. Italy is notorious for it's vandalism. Found the straw market. browsing from one stand to another. If you wanted to buy something you should never pay the asking price but should bargain for it. Traveled 165 miles today.
Wednesday, June 24
Got off to a late start. Parked in the Piazza Santa Croce area and walked to the Duomo Piazza to see the Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral - 2nd largest church in the world after St. Peters in Rome. Dorothy in sleeveless dress could not enter (true of many throughout Europe). Very dreary inside, next door the 292 foot 14th century Campanile bell tower. We discovered that this day was a holiday in Florence. The celebration of St. John of Florence, a ceremony with many priests, alter boys, etc. was taking place in the Cathedral and across the street in the Baptestry, with it's "Gate of Paradise" a bronze door with 10 scenes representing the Life of Christ and the Evangelists. It took the artist 27 years (1425-1452) to complete it.
We then visited the Medici Chapel to see some of Michaelangelos' sculptural works then on to the Academia Galleries which house his most famous work, that of "David" - very beautiful. After lunch in the car children napped as I sat with them. From 1 to 3 or 4 o'clock is siesta time and everything almost closes down.
Paul and I later visited the Santa Croce Church near our parking place, in which are buried many great Italians including Michaelangelo. He died in Rome at a ripe old age and the Romans wanted to bury him there. The people of Florence wouldn't hear of it so they smuggled his body out of Rome in a potato sack under a wagon load of potatoes and one of his best students made him a tomb in this church where he has remained since.
We returned later to the straw market and bargained for several things to take home. That evening we watched a fireworks display ending the days festivities from the Michaelangelo Piazzale which was very near our campsite. It was very colorful but lasted a good 45 minutes and the noise was terrific being so close.
Thursday, June 25
We broke up camp and left by 8:30, stopping at Florence US Military Cemetary. It was so beautiful and well cared for. We drove about 200 miles to Rome over the most winding, narrow, bumpy roads with so many curves. Arrived about 3:30 and headed for Camping Roma Monte Antenna a very large camp with pine trees everywhere. After dinner we decided to drive into Rome. We had never experienced such traffic, very heavy and it was about 8 or 8:30. We were in search of the Collosseum which we found without too much difficulty--it was lighted and crossing the street to it was a real challenge. Returning to campsite proved to be a nightmare as the map we were using did not take in that area and we drove for a good two hours in search of it asking several people who could not understand English, by pointing to our sticker on the car they could understand what we wanted but we could not make out their directions. This night decided for us that we would not be driving again in the downtown area.
Friday, June 26
Dorothy decided to stay in camp with the children for the day while Paul and I explored Rome. Dorothy and the children took us down to a bus stop where we boarded a bus for town. We looked up the American Express first and found several letters waiting for us there. We then started a walking tour visiting the Baths of Diocletian with statues and ancient buriel vaults and archaeological works. A walk down the Spanish Steps in front of the church of Trinita dei Monte took us through alleys to a quaint little restaurant for pizza, salad and wine. Next the Quirinal Palace, home of the Italian President. In front is the Fountain of the Dioscuri. We threw our coins into the famous Trevi Fountain, then visited Trojans's Market and Column and on to the Forum of Augustus and the Roman Forum marveling at the age of these ruins which until only 32 years ago had been below the surface of the ground for centuries. The enormous white monument to Victor Emmanuel II proved to be a landmark during our stay in this city. Another stop was at St. Peters in Chains Church where inside is Michelangelo's sculpture of Moses and the chains in which Peter was bound, We ended this day's adventure with a tour through the Colosseum with its magnificent ruins which is now the home of 59 or so cats.
We were quite exhausted but hiked for blocks to find our bus stop and finding it we boarded the first one to come with standing room only available and no space to spare of those standing and then we stopped for 25 minutes or more in one block due to the traffic and were over an hour getting back to camp.
Saturday, June 27
Paul stayed with the children and Dorothy and I boarded a tour bus at the campsite office at 8:30 am for a 4 hour tour of the city. This took us to many of the places Paul and I had seen yesterday but the guide told interesting stories about many of the places. In addition to these we visited the Church of St. Paul Behind the Wall. In this church there were 250 blocks 4'X5' around the ceiling and in each block was a picture of a pope in the order of their service since the first Pope. The tour ended at the Colosseum and after we looked at this we walked to the shopping area had lunch and walked for the rest of the afternoon arriving back at the camp about 7:45. It really started to rain about 2 am.
Sunday, June 28
We awoke to a very wet campsite with no good weather in view for the day so the children and I joined Paul and Dorothy in the car to spend the day seeing what we had missed. This was to have been my day to babysit but we didn't feel it would be right for the children and I to stay in the tent all day. First stop was the Flea Market where D & D investigated and returned to the car with an Italian Weight Center piece. This market at Porte di Portese in the Trastevere section of Rome is only open on Sunday from 6 am to 1 pm. This is an open air booth market running for blocks and blocks and one can buy anything here. We ate our lunch near the Piazza Navona Square containing three beautiful fountains. Near the Baths of Diocletian which they could visit for only a short time (due to Siesta time) was the Pizza Barberini containing the Fountain of Tritone. Also the Piazza Bernardo with the Fountain of Moses. We drove by the Pyramid of Caius Cestius the only pyramid in Itals, past the Baths of Caracalla with its' outdoor opera house and into the different world of Rome--the E.U.R., residential sections and Sports Palace, ultra modern in contrast to the ancient architecture we had seen before. Returned to camp about 3:00 where it had apparently rained the entire day About 5:30 it stopped and about 7:30 we made a 50 mile trip to Tivoli to see the illuminated gardens at Ville d'Este which we thought was breathtaking.
Monday, June 29
We were off shortly after 8:00 am for Naples via the Autostrada. We stopped there at the Navy Installation for lunch and etc. We continued on south to Sorrento a resort area on the beautiful Mediterranean. The drive along the cliffs overlooking the sea was beautiful. We found a very nice campsite in a lemon grove (32 cents a night for each). Had a lovely fresh water swimming pool although a short walk down the path and through an orange grove and chicken yard took us to the beach with the Mediterranean sprawling before us. 188 miles from Rome to Sorrento.
Tuesday, June 30
It was about 9 am before we got off for the day driving back northward over back roads (possibly the best in the area) through very small and poor villages towards Mt. Vesuvius. The road to the crater was very poor but we could drive for several kilometers after picking up our guide at a lower level and paying for the opportunity to see the crater. At a point we were halted where we parked taking care to lock the car well and pull the curtains. It was to have been a 20 minute hike from this point so we started each with a stick to aid us. The path which was in most places very loose ash proceeded to the top in a switch-back method and I feel would have been an impossibility for an experienced hiker to make in 20 minutes. We made the trip in a little over an hour and with 2 small children. I felt we did well. It was quite a sight to look into the huge crater before walking back down the mountain.. An Italian Movie Picture company was on location here filming scenes for "The Bible". We saw John Huston's trailer house. Returning to our campsite we lunched in the car on the autostrada and when we just about reached Salerno, we followed the Amalfi Drive along the Mediterranean back to Sorrento and camp. This proved to be about the most terrifying stretch of road in all the miles we had traveled. Averaged from 10-15 MPH using the horn at every curve as the road was very narrow. When we had a chance to enjoy the view it was beautiful. There were many orange and lemon trees and palm trees along this drive.
Wednesday, July 1
Left about 8:15 and headed for Pompei which we intended to explore but due to Paul and Dorothy not feeling well we continued on. We again lunched at the snack bar at the Navy Installation in Naples and drove via the autostrada toward Rome turning off before reaching there to drive along the Appian Way, a narrow cobblestone road with many old ruins. We picked up quite a bit of mail at the American Express. Hoped to see some of the Vatican City but drove to St. Peters' church just long enough to take a few pictures. Instead of stopping in Rome for the night we drove North toward Livorno, found a camp sight about 50 miles from Rome along the Mediterranean Sea. It was 8:00 pm when we arrived so we fixed dinner quickly and didn't set up the tent but D & P slept out in the open in their sleeping bags.
Thursday, July 2
Traveled along the Mediterranean Sea all the way to Livorno. Homes looked more prosperous with many lovely homes overlooking the sea. Saw few tractors, mostly white cattle of some breed, like Brahmas, pulling wagons and carts and spray rigs.. In one section for a number of miles every farm home had a windmill. Upon reaching Livorno we found Camp Darby where we had our lunch, We found a campsite and were told it was full but prepietor told us we could look and we found a spot to pitch the tent. A very short distance was the most beautiful beach with bathers thick as could be for as far as you could see both ways.
Friday, July 3
Leaning Tower of Pisa
We drove into Pisa first thing today and spotted the tower through a group of buildings first.It was a thrilling sight to see and it's almost impossible to conceive a building still standing when leaning 14 feet from it's original position. We climbed the 294 stairs to the top feeling the leaning with every step we took. The tower was built in 1173. Next door is the Piazza del Duomo, a 900 year old cathedral and the Baptistry.
We stopped at one of the many alabaster places and I bought several things. It's very beautiful. We then had lunch again at the Army base before returning to camp fairly early in the afternoon.
Saturday, July 4
As we were getting things packed to leave this morning a down pour drenched so much of our things. In about 10 or 15 minutes, the camp site in many places was underwater. We averaged 19-20 miles an hour between Pisa and Genoa, so many curves and the traffic (especially trucks) was terrific. Stopped long enough in Genoa for Paul and Dorothy to shop for a gift for Paul's aunt Chris and found a campsite on the outskirts of town. We set up the wet tent hoping for it to dry during the night. Traveled only 141 miles today but it was the longest driving day.
Sunday, July 5
Drive most of the day along the Italian and French Riviera--a beautiful drive. Sea was rough and the white-caps made a spectacular sight. The shoreline was one resort after another with thousands of swimmers and sun bathers. The highway bordering the shore was lined with tall palms and swanky hotels and apartment buildings. We crossed into France at Menton. We saw the Principality of Monaco against the blue Meditteranean (a beautiful sight.) This we will explore tomorrow. Our campsite was outside of Nice. Dorothy washed clothes while Paul and I set up the tent and got dinner underway. When Dorothy got done she set the purex bottle down on the ground and Brian mistaking it for a water jug drank a swallow and started choking. When we realized what had happened we fed him rice I had prepared for the dinner and Paul ran to the campsite store for vegetable oil and finally after trying to make himself understood, came back with olive oil which we fed a spoonful of to Brian. Before long he seemed to get his color back and the choking ceased and he began to laugh and play as usual. Campsite was El Hipodrome Camp west of Nice.
Monday, July 6
We drove a 30-40 minute drive to Monaco and after parking the car walked through a narrow street or two lined with shops to the Castle grounds. We walked to one side of it where there was an enclosed garden. People were waiting here for the tours. Had a half hour wait for the English tour and while we were waiting I don't think Brian took his eyes off the guard (dressed in pure white) standing at the gate we would be entering. This fellow took quite a shine to Brian too as he shook his hand and smiled at him many times. The Castle was built in 1215. We didn't see any of the royalty but did see a workman removing Prince Alberts little white car from the courtyard below. We saw a good share of the Palace except where the royalty reside. After the tour we were in time to see the changing of the guard.
We then had lunch in the car and then visited the Oceanographic Museum. There were some most unusual fish displayed here and large collections of everything pertaining to ships and deep sea life etc. After returning to camp we went over to the beach. Not as nice as the ones we had seen before and I am sure there are much nicer ones not far from here but this was the closest to us (walking distance).
Tuesday, July 7
We had intended camping in Marville after driving the rest of the Riviera today and after looking in vane for a campsite and seeing not too much of Marville we headed north and found a campsite near Sisteron near a stream. The drive from Cannes to Frejus on the autoroute (toll) road. The drive to Marville was over winding roads, not pretty or productive. Drive north to campsite was much pretier and land much more fertile. Campsite was Du Jahron (?).
Wednesday, July 8
Left camp about 8:30 and drove fairly good roads through mountains to Geneva. Stopped frequently for pictures. This was not as dirty a part of France as we had seen before (except for riviera drive) but very pretty countryside and many green fertile valleys. Upon arriving in Geneva we stopped at the American Express to look for mail and looked up a campsite which was on Lake Geneva. Good facilities.
Thursday, July 9
We spend the day in Lausanne about 40 miles from Geneva taking in the Swiss National Exhibit which takes place every 25th year. The buildings resembled those at the Seattle World's Fair, modern lines and covered acres and acres. We parked in a huge parking area and took a open bus to the entrance of the grounds. After paying a moderate price for entrance everything inside seemed to be free.
We started with the Land and Forrest section seeing ice cream and dairy products in the making also lumber being made from a log (all automatically), horses and other animals including chickens and baby chicks which delighted the children.
We rode via hanging basket car through a package packing plant and watched many industries in action, textile making, watch factory, paper mill, cheese plant. A baking operation delighted us and we bought some wonderful fruit pastries. The lunch we had was inexpensive but very tasty (cafeteria). Instead of attending the circus at 4:00 we decided to pay the admissing required and see just the animals. It was raining quite hard at times and when a camel broke loose and chased us we departed. During the children's nap time D & P traded baby sitting duties while they napped on some soft cushioned benches in one of the exhibit halls. We noticed but very few children at the fair with adults although there seemed to be several large groups of boys and girls with 2 or 3 chaperones (possibly school children). Outside the building where the childen napped several swiss people in native costumes danced and sang for the crowd which gathered shortly. The "Swiss Way" depicting their life and ways was presented in a very novel way. The one thing that seemed difficult for us throughout the day was the fact that the only languages used in signs and explanations about this was German, French and Italian.
Friday, July 10
We drove into town and walked along a parkway along Lake Geneva for a while. One of the outstanding things about this town is the wonderful way they have of landscaping using flowers, cacti and plants to make pictures. We drove out to the huge building which houses the United Nations for a tour. Many of the furnishings and building materials were donated by the various countries. We visited the two largest assembly rooms where currently the labor and disarament talkes are taking place. Neither was in session during our visit.
Paul and Dorothy did some walking during the naptime while I waited in the car. Later Paul and I visied a monument which was along the water (a mausoleum for the Duke of Brunswick). Also visited a few antique shops. Guess the Europeans who patronize the antique shops are there to buy as we were looked on as some kind of morons for "just looking". Returned to camp and more rain and wet clothes.
Saturday, July 11
Off by 7:45. We stopped in Geneva and found a book Dorothy had left (American Express Mail Office). Drive to Bern was about 2/5 hours, with excellent roads and lots of sunshine. The scenery was so beautiful. I could have loitered for days here and there. Bern was very quaint and colorful. We stopped here to see the bear pits. Then headed to Lucerne to shop eating lunch on the way. Saw the famous Lion Monument there hewn out of rock then spent hours it seemed in the most fascinating shop nearby and bought several things for gifts. Between Bern and Lucerne we stopped in a small village and bought a few garden elves and etc. Paul and I also looked in a few handwork shops displaying linens and etc. -- very beautiful.
We headed out of town intending to find sleeping quarters for all of us that night but had no luck. We stopped at a (Gasthaus) where we had a delicious dinner steak, oxtail soup, etc. As we got further away from this fascinating place my heart fell as Dorothy and Paul seemed to be so anxious to get home they were rushing this part of the trip which seemed to be so wonderful in every way. I really couldn't blame them though.
We found (?) quarters for Cammie and I in sort of a hotel. Dorothy, Paul and Brian slept in the car across the road. In the shuffle with such a bulging car with all of our purchases during the trip now became a handicap. I lost four little swiss bank painted bells. This I hated.
Sunday, July 12
By 7:45 we were headed for Zurich last lap before home later today. Stopped there for a continental breakfast. Paul and I and Brian went on a short walking tour of the city and as we were returning to the car Paul could see I would possibly like to window shop a bit so we went ahead as I was sure I could find my way but when I tried to find the car I walked around block after block and as the time passed I began to be a little alarmed as I realized I was in a strange country, but before long I came upon it. We seemed to sail the last stretch of the trip arriving about 4:00.
What a job unloading the car and carrying things three flights and then to be faced with a room full of bedroom furniture to be uncrated and put in Dorothy and Paul's room. It is teak from Denmark and very nice. When we had a breather much later that evening we looked again at the things we had bought here and there. Traveled 3,576 miles in 31 days.
The end.